Aihole, Badami and Pattadakal, Karnataka, India

Tour to UNESCO World Heritage Sites

At a distance of about 450 Km to the west of Hyderabad, these World Heritage Sites are located in the North-Western part of Karnataka around Malaprabha River, a tributary to River Krishna. These places are once the experimenting grounds for sculptors in temple architecture during Chalukyan period i.e., from 5^th century to 8^th century CE.

A view of Galaganatha and Sangameswara temples
from the Verandah of Mallikarjuna temple, Pattadakal

We hired a four wheeler and started at 2:30 pm from Hyderabad, had dinner on our way and reached Badami by night. We lodged into our hotel rooms and were eagerly waiting for the dawn to break in. Along with Srihari, Hari Varma, Padma Kumar and I (the routine gang), came Naga Subrahmanyam, a lincensed Indian Tourism guide but as a tourist like us, for gathering much information. Throughout the journey we read about these places and were fascinated by the pictures that were published in the book “Badami, Aihole and Pattadakal” written by George Michell, a Melbourne based architect who obtained a PhD in Indian Archaeology and done numerous research activities in India including Badami and Hampi for over 20 years.

Naga Subrahmanyam engaged Chandru Katageri alias Chandru, most renowned guide, with whose guidance, George Michell wrote many books about this place. But because of his busy schedule, Chandru had to assist us from the next day’s noon and so, for the morning session, he arranged Panchaiah Mallaiah alias Pancha, another guide to help us explore Aihole and its surroundings. We fixed the next day’s schedule after having a talk with Pancha.

The next day, we woke up early, got ready, had our breakfast, picked Pancha on our way and reached Aihole, which is about 40 Km to the Northeast of Badami.

Aihole (16.0192° N, 75.8819° E)

Lord Parashuram, one of the 10 incarnations of Lord Vishnu, had once taken an oath to kill Kshatriyas (Kings/Upper class of Hindu caste system) from all over the world. After each kill, he used to wash his blood stained axe in Malaprabha River, which runs over this place. Due to this, the river water turned red in colour and all the villagers looked at the river and said “Ayya Holla”. Ayya is an exclamatory mark like Ah/Oh and Holla/Kolla means water body i.e., the river. This Ayya Holla gradually became Aihole. River Malaprabha (Mala means disease, Prabha means to cure) has once water flowing in it that can cure any disease.

Aihole is said to be the Primary School of Temple Architecture.

(Entry ticket is INR 5 for temple complex and INR 5 for entry into Archaeological Survey of India Museum inside)

Aihole was the first capital of early Chalukyas. In Aihole there are around 125 temples, majority of which were located in a fortified complex and the remaining, scattered into the village. Other major attractions are the Archaeological Survey of India Museum located inside the fortification, Meguti hill to the south east and Ravanaphadi to the northeast.

After entering the fortified complex, you can see the Durga Temple. Durga doesn’t mean Goddess Durga, but a Fort/Durg. The back side of the temple is semi-circular in shape with huge columns and might be the inspiration behind the architecture of present day Indian Parliament house.

Front elevation of Durga Temple

Back elevation of Durga Temple

Inside the temple, there are sculptures of Vishnu, Shiva, Vijaya Narasimha, Mahishasura Mardhini, and Harihara along with different styles of windows and ventilations.

Vijaya Narasimha

Vishnu, Laksmi and Garuda

Mahishasura Mardhini

Window with snake and floral border

Vishnu as Varaha saving Bhoodevi

Here, we can see coiled Nagaraja (King of cobras) holding garland and lotus on the ceiling panel. This sighting is common in most of the temples.

Coiled Nagaraja holding garland and lotus
Ceiling of Durga temple

Note that all the temples here are either unfinished or damaged, thus making them inapt for worship. Also, because they are made out of sandstone which is easily prone to damage, when treated with saffron, turmeric and water, worshipping is strictly prohibited. You are allowed to move in and around these monuments with your footwear.

The super-structure (Shikara) of these temples provides us more information about the time at which the temple was built, because each ruler followed separate style of architecture. There are southern style (Dravida) shikaras which have receding steps like structures, northern style (Nagara) shikaras which are curvilinear type and finally Vesara shikaras, a mixture of both.

Cottage type roof style

Ladkhan Temple, Wooden roof style

Here, we can find all these three types and even others, like the temple just outside the Durga Temple, that has a roof which is flat and sloping to the front, which is called a cottage type. There is another temple called Ladkhan temple named after a Muslim trader. The super-structure of this temple looks like wooden roof but it is made out of stone. This temple was actually used as a trade centre in those times. The regal emblem of early Chalukyas, Varaha with sun and moon can be seen on the pillars inside Ladkhan temple. In front of Ladkhan temple there are three temples, one below ground level, second at ground level and the third at an elevation.

Regal Emblem of Early Chalukyas, Pillar of Ladkhan temple

Temples in three different elevations

A decorated vase on temple exteriors

All the walls inside these temples were carved with beautiful divine figures, happy couples, animals, mythological creatures, flowers, vases (Kumbhas/Kalasas), jokes, puzzles, games and inscriptions that depict history.

Inside this fortified place (the fortification being rebuilt at some places), there is a museum, which is surrounded by a beautiful lawn, with some ruined statues (mostly Ganesh’s) around it. In the museum, you can see some rare sculptures, inscriptions, historical data etc.

After finishing here, we started north east to Ravanaphadi. Phadi means rock or a hill. A few ahead to Ravanaphadi, there is Hucchimalli temple, well known as the mad woman temple. Ravanaphadi is a cave temple for shiva. It has a Shiv linga in the Sanctum Sanctorum (Garbha Griha). One the inner left wall, there are monolithic carvings of dancing Shiva with 10 arms, Parvathi, Ganesha and Kumara swami. On the right, there is figurine depiction of Bhageeratha praying Shiva for release of Ganga. The ceiling is magnificently sculpted and painted.

Entrance of Ravanaphadi

Dancing Shiva with 10 arms

Srihari, Myself, Hari Varma, Padma Kumar,
Naga Subrahmanyam and Pancha (Guide)

Bhageeratha story

Painting on the Ceiling

From there, we started for Meguti Hill. This hill contains a Jain temple inside fortified walls. Though, vaishnavites, shaivites and jains lived here, these areas were dominated by shaivites, as a result of which, we find more shiva temples here. Jain temples will generally be away from villages/towns because jains were Digambaras (who wore no clothes) for some period before they emerged into Swetambaras (who wore white clothes).

Fortified walls and Jain temple of Meguti hill

Jain temple, Meguti hill

From here, we visited Ramalingeswara Temple to the south west where the car festival takes place and then to Galaganatha (Shiva: Garala Khanta) Temple, where conservation and rehabilitation works are still going on.

Ramalingeswara Temple

Chariot in Ramalingeswara temple used in a recent car festival

Ruins of Galaganatha Temple

Srihari, Hari Varma, Padma Kumar, Myself
and Naga Subrahmanyam

With this, we finished exploring major sites in Aihole and started back to Badami. We finished lunch, got refreshed and started to Badami cave temples, where, Chandru was waiting for us.

Badami (15.9200° N, 75.6800° E)

Unlike Aihole, where the sculptures are carved out of stone and assembled separately into temples, Badami has temples that are carved into stones i.e., in Badami, we will find cave temples, beautifully carved into mighty sandstone hills. These sandstone hills, being in rich reddish brown colour like almonds (Badam), were the reason behind the place being called Badami. However, during early Chalukyan period, this placed was called Vatapi. This is the birth place of Lord Ganapathi statue that was recited in the famous song “Vatapi Ganapathim Bhaje…” written by Sri Muttuswami Deekshitar.

Badami is said to be the High School of Temple Architecture.

(Entry ticket is INR 5 for the cave temples and INR 5 for entry into Archaeological Survey of India Museum outside)

Badami became capital of Chalukyas after Aihole in 543 CE. There are five caves: first dedicated to Shiva; second and fourth to Vishnu; third is a natural cave and fourth is Jain cave. There is a big man made water tank called Augustya tank. The rain water from the surrounding hills gets collected in this tank. Since the rain water comes here after flowing over herbs and medicinal plants, the water is believed to be a cure for diseases but now the tank is used for washing clothes and don’t even think about stepping into the tank for any cures. The caves temples are located in the sand stone hills to the south of the tank. There is fort on these hills built by Tipu Sultan, which is presently closed to public, because it became a suicide spot rather than tourist spot. To the north of the tank, there is another hill with a fort, where you can see upper and lower shivalaya. This fort is open to public at any time and its beautiful ridges are visual treat particularly during sunset and are shooting spots for many films. To the east, there is Bhoothanatha (Shiva) Temple on the banks of Augustya Tank.

Cave temples of southern hill. A view from north fort

Entrance to cave temples, Cave 1, Badami

We met Chandru at the entrance, who led us into the caves. The first cave has three mandapas and a Shiva lingam installed in its small Sanctum Sanctorum. There are two dwarapalakas in the exterior (only one, holding the weapon); Harihara and Ardhanareeswara sculptures in the interior. There is a spectacular sculpture of Shiva with 18 arms in the exterior of the cave, the speciality of which is, it has 81 types of dance poses. Match one arm from one side to the nine arms on the other, each at a time. Repeat it with second arm and you will get 9 times 9 i.e., 81 poses. On the interior square sectioned columns you will find Shiva, Parvathi, Ganesha, Kumara swami, Bhageeratha, Garuda, Vijaya Narasimha with Prahlada etc., sculptures magnificently carved. On the exterior left side base, there is an engraving of a bull and elephant that share the same face. There are some other puzzles that explain the creativity of the sculptors and on the right, there is statue of Goddess Mahishasura Mardhini. The beautiful city of Mysore was named after her.

Dancing Shiva with 18 arms, Cave 1

Coiled Nagaraja, Ceiling, Cave 1

Bull and Elephant Puzzle, Cave 1

The second cave is a Vishnu temple, has two dwarapalakas in the exterior holding lotus flowers; Varahaswami and Trivikrama statues in the interior. The massive columns inside have the sculptures of Brahma, Shiva, Parvathi, Lakulisha, Kartikeya (Kumara swami), Durga, Ganas (dwarves), gods, demi-gods, animal, mythological creatures etc. The depiction of Vamana incarnation is beautifully shown here and also in the fourth cave.

Cave 2 : Vishnu Cave

The third cave is an undeveloped natural cave, which has a damaged sculpture of Padmapani Buddha. You can have a mind blowing view of Augustya tank, Bhoothanatha temple and the North fort.

A view of North fort from Cave 3

Closed way to South fort

The fourth cave is also dedicated to Vishnu. It is largest of all caves and has big sculptures of Vishnu seated on Adiseshu, on the left wall and Vijaya Narasimha on the right side. On the ceiling there are paintings, the organic colours of which are visible even today. The painting on the ceiling of the porch is partly visible, but one can see its full form in the museum.

Cave 4 : Vishnu Cave

Vishnu seated on Adiseshu, Cave 4

Vamana story, Cave 4

Vijaya Narasimha, Cave 4

Painting on the porch, Cave 4

Bhoothanatha temple. A view from Southern hill

The fifth cave is a Jain temple. Earlier, this cave had a separate entrance from the other side of the hill, because these Jain Digambaras were kept isolated from villages. One can still see the ruins of the stairs leading to this cave. Now, this cave shares the same entrance of the remaining ones. This cave has Bahubali on the left wall and Supershwanatha Teerthankara on the right wall. In the Sanctum Sanctorum, the sculpture of Mahaveera seated on lion can be seen. Matanga Yaksha and Siddhayini Yakshi are among the many other figures here.

Cave 5 : Jain Cave

Bahubali, Cave 5

Theerthankara, Cave 5

Please be aware of the most mischievous monkeys in this cave complex, because, they can snatch anything from your hands (like eatables, cameras, phones, wallets, small bags etc.) if you show little bit of negligence.

Mischievous monkeys chilling in the lawn, South fort

We thought of spending the sunset time on the north fort, so, we got down and moved northward. There is a museum at the bottom of the hill, but we didn’t want to miss the sunset, so, we moved up. Through one of the narrow ridges we reached the top, where there is lower Shivayala.

Typical Muslim architecture, North fort

Upper Shivalaya, North fort

Two tier Mandapas, North fort

Srihari standing on a mountain ridge

Myself through the narrow passage
leading to North fort

We spent some time watching the sun set. From there, we went through another ridge to the upper Shivalaya. There are granaries on the top where the food grains were stored (The main commercial crops of this area are Wheat and Jowar).

Granaries on the North fort

Padma Kumar at the Canon during Sunset

Many movies were shot here; one such is Vikramarkudu (Telugu) directed by Rajamouli SS. We spent the rest of the time at the canon on the watch tower of the north fort along with the drowsy grooming monkeys. Before leaving, we discussed the next day’s programme with Chandru. We planned to visit Banasankari (wife of Sankar: Parvathi) temple tonight before dinner. It is in centre of the village and was built by Marathas. Worship is still going on here and the idol of the Goddess is beautifully decorated. We offered our prayers and returned back. We bought a few books written by George Michell and others about Badami, Hampi, and Bidar from Chandru. Had our dinner, ate an eight Kg watermelon and went to sleep.

Next day, we got up at 5 am and started for Sidhilaphadi, 3 km from Badami road. But we have to go by foot. Sidhilaphadi is a rock shelter of pre-historic men, dating to 10,000 BCE. It took us 45 minutes to reach there and on our way, we had a beautiful view of sunrise. The shelter has some rock paintings dating back to 8,000 BCE to 7,000 BCE, but mostly semi-visible, because of erosion and weathering of rock.

Sunrise on our way to Sidhilaphadi Caves

Rock Shelter dating back to 10,000 BCE

Paintings inside the rock shelter

We climbed up the shelter and the view of the surroundings around us is spectacular. The cool breeze, the lush green eucalyptus trees, the fallen leaves, the chirping of birds, reddish hills, weathered rocks and the feel of standing in a place where the pre-historic men had once lived and walked some 10,000 years ago, leaves us with memories that can only be experienced but cannot be expressed.

Padma Kumar and Chandru (Guide)

Hari Varma, atop the Rock Shelter

After half-an-hour we returned back, had plump breakfast at Badami (because of 7 Km long appetite rising morning walk), got refreshed and started to Bhoothanatha Temple. Before that we stopped at the entrance point of north fort and visited the museum which we skipped yesterday.

Inscriptions depicting History

There are many rare exhibits here, like the Brahma Toranam at the entrance of the museum which has the same sculptures on both sides. We can see the chisels and hammers used in those times, unearthed clay pottery items, miniature models of temples and Sidhilaphadi etc.

Bhoothanatha Temple is the temple of Shiva (King of all Bhoothas i.e., Creatures). It is on the eastern bank of Augustya tank, designed in such a way that the water level can at any time touch the top most step of the temple but cannot exceed it. If the level increases further, it will be discharged from a channel on the other side of the tank.

Bhoothanatha Temple on the eastern bank of Augustya Tank

Myself near Bhoothanatha Temple

From here, we started to Mahakoota. Mahakoota is also called as South Varanasi. A place is best suited for construction of temple if it is beside a river that flows east to north. At Varanasi, Ganga flows from like that and here, Malaprabha. Mahakoota is a complex of Shiva temples guarded by Kala and Kali and has Vishnu Pushkarini, a natural spring with an underwater temple of Shiva (currently closed to visitors). This tank is surrounded by Shiva Lingas and Shiva temples surrounded by thick trees. These temples resemble like temples of Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Dwaarapalakas - Kaala and Kaali, Mahakoota

Vishnu Pushkarini, Mahakoota

Ardhanareeswara - Half Shiva, Half Parvathi

Mahakoota temples resembling Angkor wat temples

From here, we moved to Pattadakal. On our way, we saw a Dolmen just on the road side. Dolmens are burial sites of pre-historic men dating back to 7^th or 8^th millennia BCE. The dolmen consists of approximately 2 square meter area surrounded by four vertically placed rocks with a rectangular entrance cut on one rock and capped by a flat rock. The pre-historic men either used to bury the dead and constructed these structures over it or placed the skeletal remains inside after construction. Anyways, these are rare sightings.

Dolmen, Pre-historic burial site

 At a distance of 500 meters ahead of the main temples groups of Pattadakal, there is a Jain temple displaying distinctive attributes of Rashtrakuta style. The magnificent elephant torsos with riders on either side of the entrance door are really structural wonders.

Jain temple, Pattadakal

Elephant torso with raider, Jain temple

Pattadakal (15.9458° N, 75.8167° E)

Pattadakal is the place where coronation events (Pattabhishekam) of kings took place. There was a belief that a king whose coronation took place here would rule for a long period, so, kings from all over the sub-continent used to come here.

Pattadakal is said to be the College of Temple Architecture.

(Entry ticket is INR 10 for the temple complex)

It’s the final and greatest experimentation centre for architecture. It is here, that the Rekha Nagara Prasada and Dravida Vimana styles of temple architecture were given their final form. The Papanatha, Kasi Visweswara, Jambulinga and Galaganatha temples, noted for their curvilinear shikara represent the north Indian Nagara style of architecture whereas the Mallikarjuna, Sangameswara and Virupaksha temples having square roofs of receding tiers represent the south Indian Dravida style of architecture.

Main temples of Pattadakal with different Shikara styles

Padma Kumar in front of Sangameswara Temple

Hari Varma in front of Virupaksha Temple

The Lokeswara (Virupaksha) and Trilokeshwara (Mallikarjuna) temples were built by Lokamahadevi and Trilokamahadevi, the queens of Vikramaditya II, to commemorate his victory over pallavas of kanchi. On the basis of pillar inscriptions, before Sangameswara temple, these temples were dated to 740 CE.

History inscripted on Pillars

The Shiva linga in Virupaksha temple, the Nandi and its Pavilion are the things you won’t forget for a life time. Worshipping is still going on in here at Virupaksha temple.

Marvelous Nandi in its Pavilion before Virupaksha temple

Sanctum Sanctorum of Virupaksha Temple

The early Chalukyan art is noted for its grace and vigour. Rich imagination and delicate detailing can be seen in Papanatha, Virupaksha and Mallikarjuna temples, where, besides Gods, Demi-gods and human figurines, narratives of Ramayana, Mahabharata and the Bhagavatha can be seen.

Ramayana, Virupaksha Temple

Mahabharatha, Virupaksha Temple

Bhagavatha, Virupaksha Temple

Papanatha Temple, Pattadakal

The brick mandapa of the late Satavahana period, 3^rd – 4^th Century CE is the earliest attempt to build temples in Pattadakal while the latest one being the Jain temple of Rashtrakuta period of 9^th Century CE.

With this, our tour came to an end along with our energy levels. On our way to Badami, Chandru took us to Huligemmanakolla; a rock cut temple with several Goddess sculptures including Lajja Gowri (Goddess of fertility).

Seven Mothers, Huligemmanakolla

We stayed some time there and returned to Badami, got refreshed at the lodge, bid farewell to Chandru and started journey back to Hyderabad at 4.00 pm and reached by night.